Lesson #8
Diamonds Pillow
Materials Needed:
# 22 Diamonds Afghan & Pillow from the book, Our Best Knit
Collection by Leisure Arts (1990)
Yarn to complete the project
Contrast Yarn or Stitch Holders
Paper or a Project Notebook
Colored pencils to make notations
Techniques Used:
CO e- wrap method
Transferring stitches from the Main Bed to the Ribber
Creating Lace stitches that form a “ridge” on the knit side
Making a 1x1 Cable Twist
Making a 3x3 Cable
BO in knitting
Waste Knitting
Picking up stitches from waste knitting
Knitting
Terms You Will Need to Know for Lesson #8
K2 tog- Single decrease –This stitch slants to the right on the
knit side of your fabric.
If you move your stitch to the right on your knitting machine, purl
side facing you, the upper stitch slants to the right on the knit side of the
fabric.
P2 tog- Single decrease-This stitch slants to the right on the knit
side of your fabric. Move one stitch to the right on your knitting machine,
purl side facing you, the upper stitch slants to the right on the knit side of
the fabric.
Hint: K2 tog = P2 tog- Look
at your hand knit diagrams in your Lesson Book. Notice the direction in which the stitches are knitted off with
the other knitting needle. It creates
the same effect on the knitted side.
K1 PSSO- Single decrease-This decrease slants to the left on the
knit side of your fabric. If you move
one stitch to the left on your knitting machine, the purl side facing you, the
upper stitch slants to the left on the knit side of the fabric.
Stockinette Stitch – Knit 1 Row, Purl 1 Row (K 2 rows on your
knitting machine)
YO-This stitch is created in machine knitting by placing the needle
into work position to catch the yarn as the carriage knits across the row. This loop is used to form a stitch, which is
formed on the following rows knitted.
Twist- A Twist is a cable formed by crossing over two
stitches. Using the two single stitch
transfer tools that came with your knitting machine, remove each individual
stitch onto each transfer tool. On the
main needle bed there should be two adjacent empty needles. You now have one stitch on each single
transfer tool. Place a tool in each
hand. Take the tool in your right hand
and transfer the stitch onto the vacant needle on the left. Next, transfer the stitch in your left hand
and place it onto the needle on the right.
The result is that the left stitch should cross over the right
stitch. This crossing over forms a
two-stitch cable or cable Twist.
Three Stitch Cable Twist Back- Using the three stitch transfer tool
that came with the knitting machine remove each group of three stitches onto
the two three stitch transfer tools.
Place one transfer tool in each hand.
Following the direction of the knitting carriage, i.e. if the carriage
is to knit from left to right, place the second set of three stitches farthest
from the knitting carriage (or on the right side or hand) onto the first three
empty needles (left side or left hand).
Next place the stitches remaining on the transfer tool in your left hand
onto the three remaining empty needles on the right. These three stitches cross over from left to right on the purl
side. Pull all six needles out into E
position. Knit across.
Three Stitch Cable Twist Front- Using the three stitch transfer
tool that came with the knitting machine remove each group of three stitches
onto the two three stitch transfer tools.
Place one transfer tool in each hand.
Following the direction of the knitting carriage, i.e. if the carriage
is to knit from left to right, transfer the first set of three stitches that
are closest to the knitting carriage (or on the transfer tool in you left hand)
onto the three adjacent empty needles on the right or farthest from the
carriage. Next, transfer the three
stitches remaining on the tool in your right hand onto the empty needles to the
left or closest to the knitting carriage.
These three stitches should cross over from right to left on the purl
side. Pull all six needles out into E
position. Knit across.
Making transferred lace
stitches that form a “ridge” on the knit side- To make this type of eyelet pattern the stitch forming the
eyelet gets transferred “under” the adjacent stitch. This gets accomplished by first lifting up the adjacent stitch on
to a single stitch transfer tool. That
needle is now “empty” or free of a stitch.
Next, with the other single transfer tool, transfer the adjacent stitch
(it may be on the right or left depending) onto the now empty needle. Next, place the original stitch that is
currently on the first transfer tool on top of the transferred stitch on that
needle. There now should be two
stitches on that needle. The adjacent needle that the second stitch was
transferred from should be empty. Bring
that needle into the work position. Knit
across. What happens is the stitch that
needs to be transferred gets placed “under” the stitch it is being transferred
to. This forms a ridge of angled
transferred stitches on the knit side.
#22 Diamonds
Pillow
Textured Knitting Created by Hand Tooling on the
Knitting Machine
Discussion:
Techniques for creating Easy Cables
Textured knitting utilizing the cable technique is accomplished by
the hand transferring of a stitch or multiple stitches from one needle or group
of needles to another and/or from one needle bed to another creating a pattern
of openwork and knit-purl stitches that twist over and under each other. This rhythm is influenced by the knitted
effect and the type of cable desired.
Over the years various cultures have influenced these types
patterns. Today, many hand and machine
knitters enjoy the look of the Aran, Guernsey, and Swedish lace openwork,
cable, and zigzag patterns such as this one.
When first learning any pattern it takes time and persistence. It is sort of like learning to drive and
stick shift at the same time. After a
period of time certain functions just become natural.
Creating cables can be quite fun once one masters the coordination
of the transferring and crossing over of several stitches at a time. It helps to use yarn that has some
elasticity to form the crossed stitch.
The larger amount of stitches crossed over the more elasticity is needed
to perform the task. It is helpful to
loosen the ribbing tension and place the cabled stitches into E position before
knitting across. This helps prevent or
alleviate dropped stitches and any carriage jamming that may occur. Never force your carriage across your
needle bed. If this occurs first
un-jam your carriage, re-knit and replace any dropped stitches. Next readjust your row counter. Re-cross your stitches if they are not too
tight or too difficult to do so. (If it
is then stop here and read on to the next section.) Cut lengths of the yarn that you are using that is approximately
three times the length of the area to be knitted. Using this yarn, hand knit these stitches to be crossed. Do this for each cable section across your
needle bed utilizing a separate piece of yarn for each section. Next, with your main carriage knit
across.
If you still have problems, you may need to knit each individual
section in a similar manor only before the stitches are crossed over. For example, let us say you need to cross
over 3 x 3 stitches as in this Aran Pillow pattern. You would knit each 3-needle section with its own piece of yarn
by hand one or two rows before crossing over the stitches. This process “loosens” the crossed over
stitches by adding in more ease in length to the cable. Once this is finished, with your main
carriage, knit one row across. Only
count this as one row even though you may have knit by hand 2 rows over the
required stitches. Continue on until
the next cable section and repeat this process.
The Pattern Repeat: Rows 1-16
First, as always take a look at
your pattern. Read it over. The pattern is easier to understand if you
break it down first into pattern sections and then into rows to read and
follow. You will need paper and your
colored pencils for this. Make a key
for the colors on the side of the pattern or on separate notepaper for
reference. You can also keep this for
future projects.
Pattern
Sections and Pattern Repeats
Row 1 and All Odd Rows
Always start counting from either the right or left of your
knitting project depending on which direction your carriage is going knitting
the first row. Make sure to place your
row counter on 0 starting with this row.
Except for some unusual instances, cabling is mostly done on the main
bed. It is always helpful to look at
the picture of the knitting project as you are reading the pattern. Notice that on row one, the pattern is
broken up by knit and purl stitches. The
purl stitches go on the upper or main bed, and the knit stitches go on the
lower or ribbing bed. Remember to
think in reverse as the “wrong” side of your knitting is facing you. If you have trouble with this, walk around
and stand in front of your knitting machine.
I find this helpful at times for visualizing what needs to be done. You can also remove your knitting onto a
stitch holder for temporary removal from the knitting machine in order to see
the other side of your knitting.
I will be using the following key:
X = Stitches on the main bed
0 = Stitches on the ribbing
bed
+ = Eyelet formed
Make sure your racking indicator is on half pitch (see pg 33 in
your 70D instruction book). There are a
few ways to cast on before starting your project. I suggest casting on using your main bed with waste yarn, knit one
row of ravel cord and change to your main yarn. When casting on with your main yarn you will use either a
permanent or a non-permanent cast on method depending on how you intend finish
off your pillow. Next knit one row with
your main yarn. Make sure your weights
are evenly distributed and there is sufficient weight on both the ends. Next, change your coupler and engage your
ribbing bed. Using the formula that the
purl stitches go on the main bed and the knit stitches go on the ribbing bed
(think in reverse), row 1 should set up as follows according to the first row
in the directions (see pg 40 Leisure Arts):
XX XXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXX XX
0000 000 000
000
000 000 000 0000
Row Two - Read through your pattern again. Notice
the changes. The beginning and end stitch will not remain on the ribber and
that on every EVEN row they transfer from needle bed to needle
bed. Mark on the chart above, these end
stitches with a green pencil. These are your first group of pattern stitches,
Green. Next, note that on every other
even row a cable Twist is made. Mark
this group of stitches with a red colored pencil on the chart above. This is your second group of pattern repeat
stitches, Red.
Lastly, note that on the middle
group of 13 stitches your first eyelet for the lace transfer begins. The 5 & 6th needle in this
pattern set is knit together, needle 7 having a yarn over forming an eyelet
(needle 7, the center stitch of the 13 stitch pattern) of this group of pattern
stitches. Mark the center needle with a
blue pencil. Notice I have marked this stitch with a + above the pattern. This
is your third group of pattern repeat stitches, Blue. Read your pattern through
for this group of stitches. Notice how
the pattern is formed. Look at the
picture for help. The eyelet pattern
shapes a diamond pattern, widening at its base and then tapering down to one
eyelet at the top again. Stitches are
transferred in this way every other even row. Mark your eyelets noticing that
they gradually move outward from the center stitch every other row up to and
including row 10. On row 12 the
pattern gradually moves inward every other row ending with an eyelet on
the center stitch of these group of needles (needle 7 of 13).
+
X XX
XXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX
XXXXXXXXX XX X
000
000
000 000
000 000 000 000
Row Three – Nothing is mentioned so revert to the instructions for
row 1.
XX XXXXXXXXX
XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX
XXXXXXXXX XX
0000 000 000
000
000 000 000 0000
Row Four- Take a look at the pattern repeat and notice that on the
nine stitches there is a cable to be made (see row 4). The amount of stitches
in these two sections of cable pattern will need to be modified. Don’t mark
these stitches yet unless you want to adjust your cable pattern to include 3
sets of 3 stitch cables. The amount of
stitches in this section will need to be modified. Remember, included with your machine are two transfer tools that
transfer a maximum of up to 3 stitches at a time. I suggest looking at the
pattern repeat and see where those extra stitches can be absorbed without
changing the pattern noticeably. Since
there are two sections that have this cable pattern there are 6 additional
stitches to be absorbed. If you add one
stitch to each of the sets of 3 stitches already set on the ribbing bed, you
will have an additional 6 groups of 4 stitches instead of the current 6 sets of
3 stitches. Your needle set up will then be modified to look like this:
Revised Row One
XX XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXX XX
0000 0000 0000
0000
0000 0000 0000 0000
Revised Row Two
Transfer end stitches, make a
cable Twist, and transfer lace stitch
+
X XX
XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXX
XX X
000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 000
Mark your end stitches (green)
and Twist cables (red). The Twist cable
is the second repeat pattern set of needles, Red.
Revised Row Three
Transfer end stitches
XX XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX
XXXXXX XX
0000 0000 0000
0000
0000 0000 0000 0000
Revised Row Four
Transfer end stitches, make a
cable Twist, Cable BACK, and transfer lace stitches
+ +
X XX
XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXX
XX X
000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 000
Next, mark the two groups of 6
stitches for your cable with a yellow pencil. This is your fourth group of
pattern stitches. Note that on every
4th row a cable on these sets of 6 stitches is made. Breaking this pattern into a cable section
read further down in your directions to every succeeding 4th row and
notice how the cable changes. The first
4th row is a back cable and the second 4th row (Row 8) is
a front cable. Reading further notice
how these back and front cables alternate every 4th row.
Revised Row 5
Transfer end stitches
XX XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX
XXXXXX XX
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000
Revised Row 6
Transfer end stitches, make a
cable Twist, and transfer lace stitches
+ +
X XX
XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXX
XX X
000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 000
Revised Row 7
Transfer end stitches
XX XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX
XXXXXX XX
0000 0000 0000
0000
0000 0000 0000 0000
Revised Row 8
Transfer end stitches, Twist
Cable, make FRONT Cable, and transfer lace stitches.
+ +
X XX
XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXX XX X
000
0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 000
Revised Row 9
Transfer end stitches
XX XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX
XXXXXX XX
0000 0000 0000
0000
0000 0000 0000 0000
Revised Row 10
Transfer end stitches, Twist
Cable, make FRONT Cable, and transfer lace stitches.
+ +
X XX
XXXXXX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XXXXXX
XX X
000
0000 0000 0000 0000
0000 0000 000
As you can see, so far we have
the above pattern emerging.
Every Even Row
Green- transfer the end stitch to
the main bed
Red- form a cable Twist
Blue- transfer your eyelet
stitches accordingly; the first 10 rows increasing, the second 10 rows decreasing
Every 4th Row
Yellow- every 4 rows a cable are
made alternating between a Back Cable (1st) and Front Cable.
Every 10th Row
Blue-the eyelets end on either a
last increase row or decrease row.
Green- transfer the end stitch to
the main bed
Red- form a cable Twist
Marking The Places on Your
Knitting Machine
Once you find your pattern
emerging on your paper, the next step is to mark on your needle bed these
groups of stitches identified with the coordinating colors. By breaking down
the pattern into smaller groups of stitches the pattern becomes more
manageable. Color identification becomes useful for other projects in which
there is a multiple pattern repeat.
Remember to always count from the same direction. Good luck and Happy Knitting! Questions?
E-mail me at Jsag77@cfl.rr.com
Best Wishes,
Joanne Sag www.imaginethisproductions.com
Copyright 2003 Imagine This
Productions