Lesson #6 Hooded Raglan Pullover

Materials Needed:

#12 Hooded Raglan Pullover from the book, Our Best Knit Collection by Leisure Arts (1990)

Yarn to complete the project

Contrast Yarn or Stitch Holders

Button

Techniques Used:

CO 1/1 rib

FF Increasing

Decreasing

Creating a Garter Stitch

Picking Up Stitches for a Knitted Band

BO in Knitting

Making Horizontal Button Holes in Garter Stitch

Waste Knitting

Picking Up Stitches from Waste Knitting

Raglan Shaping

Attaching a Separate Neckband or Hood to a Neckline (optional)

Attaching a Separate Patch Pocket (Called a Pouch in this Pattern)

Knitting a Placket Front

Knitting Terms You Will Need to Know for Lesson #6

K2 tog- Single decrease –This stitch slants to the right on the knit side of your fabric.

If you move your stitch to the right on your knitting machine, purl side facing you, the upper stitch slants to the right on the knit side of the fabric.

P2 tog- Single decrease-This stitch slants to the right on the knit side of your fabric. Move one stitch to the right on your knitting machine, purl side facing you, the upper stitch slants to the right on the knit side of the fabric.

Hint: K2 tog = P2 tog- Look at your hand knit diagrams in your Lesson Book. Notice the direction in which the stitches are knitted off with the other knitting needle. It creates the same effect on the knitted side.

K1 PSSO- Single decrease- This decrease slants to the left on the knit side of your fabric If you move one stitch to the left on your knitting machine, the purl side facing you, the upper stitch slants to the left on the knit side of the fabric.

Stockinette Stitch- Knit 1 Row, Purl 1Row (K 2 rows on your knitting machine)

Garter Stitch- This stitch is formed by knitting every row. On the knitting machine, every other row would be transferred to the ribber and knit. An alternate method is to use the latch tool to reform each stitch by pulling the yarn through the reverse side of the loop and then replacing it back on the needle. Using either process a Knit stitch is formed on the Purl side of the knitted fabric.

Discussion: Knitted Pockets

Read through the pattern first. Notice that the back, front and sleeves are knitted first and that the pouch pocket is knitted separate and then sewn onto the garment last. This type of pocket is called a “Patch Pocket” as it is added on or “patched” to your garment at the end.

When knitting a knit-in pocket, the pocket is added while knitting your garment. The seams are hidden in the knitting by knitting both stitches from the pocket and the main body of the garment together as one. This makes a smoother appearance by the continual line created by the knit stitch. Often times Patch Pockets are added to the garment by a duplicate stitch method that creates the same effect by “covering over” the original knitted edge. The garter trim eliminates the need for this by creating a finished knitted edge.

Knitting the Front of the Sweater

Knitting a Patch Pocket

Pocket Placement:

Keeping track of the rows when knitting a pocket becomes important for proper vertical placement, and keeping track of your stitches is important for horizontal placement. If you decide to follow the pattern and knit the pocket separate, keep track of the rows and stitches required to knit it. Then while knitting the main body you will be able to mark with separate bits of contrasting yarn its proper placement finding first the stitches, and then while knitting the rows, the proper top and bottom attachment point.

In the pattern, the pouch pocket is knitted as a separate piece and then added on at the end. Read the directions for knitting the pouch first. Notice how many stitches you cast-on and cast-off. Divide the amount of stitches to cast on and cast off in two. These results will give the end and center points for pocket placement for both the beginning and ending stitches of the pocket. Then look at over how many rows the pocket is knit. These rows will tell you when to begin and when to end your pocket. With a pencil, mark these figures next to where it says Front. You will need to know this information to transfer it over to the Front while knitting this piece.

Decide where you want the pocket to begin. In the directions it says to attach the pocket above the ribbing. This is where you have some creative freedom if you choose. You may want to begin the pocket two inches above the ribbing. The given gauge is 26R over 4 inches, or 6.5 rows per inch. 6.5 rows per inch x 2 (inches) = 13 rows. You would start your pocket on R 13. If you obtain a fraction for an answer you can round this number up or down depending on which row you wish to begin. Next, add the total amount of rows needed to knit the length of the pouch to this number. That will be your ending row. Depending on the size this may vary. Next to where it says Front, mark in pencil these important rows to remember.

Starting with the first row where the pocket is to begin on the Front of the garment, mark with contrasting yarn the middle and end stitches on either side of the 0 mark. Next, when the amount of rows are completed that match the number of rows of the pocket mark the center and end points again with contrasting yarn for the center and end stitch placement of the pocket. Marking your centers helps you place the pocket(s) evenly across your garment for seaming. Make sure you do not knit in these bits of contrasting yarn used as markers for placement!

Raglan Shaping

The raglan shaping is formed by using the two-pronged transfer tool. Notice where the directions it says to knit one stitch, and then knit the next two stitches together (the second and third stitch) knit across to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, and K the last stitch. The second and third stitches from the ends are knitted together for this full-fashioned decrease. Using the two-prong needle transfer tool you will create a full fashion decrease on each end by overlapping the second and third stitch with the tool.

The Front Placket Band

The front placket band is overlapped either on the right side or left side depending upon weather it is a boy or a girl. If you don’t know, as a “rule of thumb” I would suggest knitting it as if it were for a boy. Girls are known to wear boy’s apparel, but boy’s will be put on the spot by their peers if they appear wearing girls clothing.

When you reach the appropriate row to start the placket, slip half of your knitting onto a stitch holder (circular needle) or place on hold half of your knitting and remove the other half to waste knitting. Remember to use a yarn of the same or similar weight to avoid a ridge formed by the waste knitting stitches when removed.

Next, using the e-wrap method, add the 8 additional stitches needed for the placket. These 8 stitches are knit in garter stitch. Remember the garter stitch can stretch like an accordion if knitted loosely. Use a more firm stitch or tighten you tension 1 less than the body tension if using your ribber for creating these stitches. At the same time continue decreasing for the full-fashioned raglan decrease on the other side. When the side is complete remove the remaining stitches from the machine on waste knitting. Re-hang the other side adding on the additional 8 stitches if necessary for the placket. Knit this side of the Front following the directions remembering to reverse the shaping.

After you complete your Front, I suggest you knit your pocket. The pocket on this sweater plays an important part of its design. Since the pocket is on the outside of the garment, getting the pocket centered and knitting it the correct size is important not only for its function but for the over all look of the garment. By knitting the pocket after the Front is completed and before the additional pieces are attached to each other it is easier to check the placement and size of the pocket. There is less bulk and less risk of the knitting stretching distorting the look of the front of the sweater. Corrections or changes in placement and size can be easily made at this point.

Mark your center of the pocket with a bit of contrasting yarn just as you did for the Front. Do this for both the bottom and top of the pocket. Make sure you leave the stitches on the ends free for the garter stitch. The decreasing starts after the garter trim. Move your stitches over to accommodate the decreases first before transferring your stitches to either bed for the garter pattern.

Complete the pouch; block your pieces and pin in place matching the markers. Backstitch the pocket in place.

Continue knitting the rest of the pieces, but do not sew the neck plackets down until the neckband and Hood are finished. This allows the extra ease that may be needed for the neckline to stretch across the needle bed.

Knitting The Neck Band and Hood

Following the directions after the pieces are completed, the neck stitches are picked up from the waste knitting and replaced on the main bed. Depending upon the depth of the placket, this may be impossible to do because there may not be enough stretch to let the knitting lie flat across the needle bed. I suggest to knit the neckline and hood separately and then stitch/graft them together at the neckline.

Knitting the neckband separately, first cast on in waste knitting the same amount of stitches that would be across the neckline to be picked up. Change to your main yarn and follow the directions. Please note that on row five you will need to make a buttonhole to coordinate with the Placket Front. This will depend upon which side you added the 8 additional stitches for the placket. If you are not sure place the knitting as though you were going to pick up the stitches for the Front and note which side the additional stitches were added to. To form a buttonhole, transfer one stitch to the adjoining next stitch, place the empty needle back into B position, knit across creating an eyelet. For a larger buttonhole, transfer two stitches to the adjacent stitches lying on either side of these two stitches, place these stitches back in B position, and knit across. Next, using the yarn caught in the empty needles, e-wrap the two stitches with this yarn with the help of one of your tools, place these stitches in E position, and knit across. Remember to continue knitting the garter stitch pattern to row eleven.

Try to apply some of the other knitting techniques and tips learned in the other lessons. Block and assemble your pieces starting with the pocket and raglan seams. Next, sew the side seams, attaching the neckband and hood last. Sew the bottom edge of the placket down and attach the button.

Happy Knitting!

Kindest Regards,

Joanne

If you have any questions, please e-mail me at Jsag77@cfl.rr.com

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